When creating a tailored suit or jacket, everything begins with two pillars: the fit and the fabric. But there’s a third element — often overlooked — that determines the true quality of a garment: its construction. At Ettemadis, we always choose a full canvas construction. This traditional technique requires more time, precision, and craftsmanship, but the result is a suit that is superior in every way — in comfort, longevity, and elegance.
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The full canvas construction
A full canvas construction means that a layer of canvas — made from horsehair and often blended with wool — is hand-stitched throughout the jacket. Over time, this canvas moves and shapes itself to the natural lines of your body, giving the suit a graceful drape that only improves with wear. Hand-sewing this canvas requires hours of additional craftsmanship, but it offers three major advantages for the wearer:
First: since no glue is used, the natural properties of the fabric are fully preserved. Your suit remains breathable and comfortable, even after a long day.
Second: the canvas molds to your body and retains its shape for years, without sagging.
Third: a full canvas suit doesn’t age — it develops character. Over time, it settles beautifully and becomes uniquely yours.
At Ettemadis, we work with two types of canvas: a lighter version for summer fabrics and a heavier quality for winter and textured materials. This way, every fabric receives the construction it deserves, ensuring a custom suit of the highest possible quality.
“A full canvas construction is more than a technique — it’s the soul of a tailored suit, allowing it to grow more beautiful with every year.”
Why not half canvas?
Many tailoring houses use a half canvas construction. In this method, canvas is applied only to the upper part of the jacket (the chest and lapels), while the lower section is reinforced with a fused interlining.
At first, this can give a smooth drape. However, as the suit is worn and dry-cleaned over time, the fused section begins to lose its natural shape. The adhesive also restricts breathability — resulting in a jacket that feels less comfortable and ages faster.
And what about fused?
The cheapest and least durable option is a fully fused construction, in which the entire lining is glued to the outer fabric. While suitable for mass production, it has no place in true bespoke tailoring.
The fabric loses its natural flexibility and looks stiff. Over time, the glue can separate from the fabric, causing unsightly bubbles on the surface. At Ettemadis, we believe a suit made this way cannot be called true craftsmanship.
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